Quintal combines the quality of cooking and service found in a first-rate restaurant with the experience of being invited into someone’s tasteful home for a leisurely dinner party. Quintal’s proprietor and chef — known in town fondly as "Neilso" — spent 20 years running a successful restaurant in Brazil’s capital city of Brasilia before semi-retiring to Buzios. Here he opens his home in the hills above Manguinhos Bay on Friday and Saturday nights to a lucky group of no more than 35 people who are ‘in the know’ about Buzios’ dining scene. Reservations are essential, especially during the summer season and on holidays when affluent visitors from Rio and São Paulo populate the town.

Neilso’s home is in a quiet residential neighborhood and he employs a person to help park his guests’ cars. He offers one seating per night at 9 p.m., and upon arrival you’re invited to enjoy a cocktail or a glass of champagne out on the deck where the illuminated waters of a pool and a serene Buddha sculpture enhance the starry sky. Once diners settle at their tables which are selected by Neilso in advance, the wait staff brings out a beautiful selection of spreads and dips along with a breadbasket and a martini glass filled with crisp endive spears. There is regular butter, passion fruit butter, plum chutney, an aubergine ratatouille, a garlicky sour cream dip, and a sweeter dill-flavored yogurt dip to choose from.

The short wine list focuses mainly on good vintages from Argentina and Chile, supplemented by a few European imports. No printed menu is presented since Neilso takes the time to visit each table and personally explain the choices of the evening to his guests. Due to the limitations imposed by his “home” kitchen, he offers no appetizers or salads beyond the initial couvert, and just seven entrée plates of homemade pasta, meat and seafood, as well as three desserts.

Each dish is made to order and we marveled at the beautiful presentations. A seafood fettuccine with large prawns, calamari and squid arrived at the table not only piping hot but also nestled in a large white seashell lined with purple bougainvillea flowers. Servings of gnocchi in pesto sauce are brought in individual small copper pans and are accompanied by a choice of oven-roasted fish, osso buco, or assorted seafood. Lamb chops arranged around a mound of “tropical” risotto in a colorful Portuguese ceramic dish are a feast for all the senses. On both of our visits we found the portions to be so generous that we couldn’t quite finish three plates split between the two of us, and had to pass on dessert.

Since I had only heard of Quintal by word of mouth (you couldn’t accidentally stumble upon its location, and, if so, there’s no signage to alert you), I saved a first reservation for the special occasion of my sweetheart’s birthday. I elicited quite a look of surprise on his face as we drove up the winding road to the address given me over the phone, and again when a friendly English-speaking waitress opened the front door to lead us into a spacious high-ceilinged room with an open kitchen at one end and tables of various sizes arranged throughout. Floor to ceiling windows and glass sliding doors open the space to the outdoors where a large deck with a pool and built-in benches is surrounded by lush tropical landscaping. A staircase leads to the upper private quarters, and Asian antiques, along with contemporary artworks, lend the space its eclectic and very personal feel of being in someone’s home — and, indeed, you are.

That evening we shared the fettuccine “Al Mare” with giant prawns, squid and calamari, the “Cordeiro” - grilled lamb chops with tropical risotto, and a dish called “Macaquito” — prawns in a banana-coconut milk sauce served with steamed rice. The fettuccine were cooked to just the right degree of “al dente” and blended deliciously with the plentiful and succulent seafood in a light cream sauce. The six flavorful lamb chops had been grilled to a perfect medium-rare and were offset nicely by the slight tartness of the risotto — steamed rice blended with finely diced tropical fruits. The prawns “Macaquito” style — a dish which originated in the coastal Bahia region of Brazil — didn’t please our palates quite as much. The huge prawns were fresh and tender but their taste was somewhat overwhelmed by the sweet sauce of pureed bananas in a coconut milk base which lacked the underlying spiciness Neilso had attributed to it earlier.

Other menu choices included the three preparations of house-made gnocchi — with seafood, osso buco or oven-roasted codfish — and a plate of Argentinean style dried beef served with grilled vegetables. Dishes that reconstitute dried fish or meat are quite popular among Brazilians but tend to be very salty, since large amounts of salt are used for preservation during the drying process. We decided to pass on it. We also found ourselves too satiated to consider desserts, though they sounded tempting — homemade Mascarpone cheese ice cream, fruit-filled crepes and a “Lady Di” cake were offered. Most tables seemed to be sharing some sweets, along with orders of coffee and tea.

Conversations kept flowing lively while Neilso made the rounds to check on his guests’ satisfaction, and it wasn’t until about midnight that most of us were ready to call it an evening. On the way out, we had to do a double-take—glancing one fellow diner, seated near the kitchen, who was animatedly enjoying his nightcap bare-chested. In Buzios the emphasis is definitely less on etiquette and more on having a good time, and, happy as we were, we decided to make another reservation for the following weekend. Our bill, inclusive of a 10% tip, came to 455.00 Reais. This included a bottle of fine Chilean sauvignon blanc (70.00 Reais) and a bottle of tasty Argentinean cabernet sauvignon (80.00 Reais), two mineral waters, and a 24.00 Reais charge for the opening couvert.

Anticipating another bounty of culinary delights, we arrived for our second dinner on time and with a healthy appetite, not wanting to miss anything. We were again charmed by the atmosphere and the graciousness of our host, content with our assigned corner table, and were heading toward the outside deck for cocktails when we passed the small chalkboard posted near the kitchen listing the evening’s menu. To our surprise, all the items — a total of seven entrée plates and three desserts — were identical to those offered the week before, the only exception being the fish served with the gnocchi was grouper this time around. An inquiry of our English-speaking waitress revealed that the menu at Quintal rarely changes since it’s been a formula for success and most guests are out-of-towners who visit only occasionally.

We decided to make the best of it, and reordered the fettuccine “Al Mare” and the lamb chops, which had both been exceptional. And we were swayed to order the gnocchi with oven-roasted grouper, since the dish is billed as Chef Neilso’s specialty. Once again, the presentations were beautiful and the portions generous, and the fettuccine and lamb chops were cooked to perfection. The gnocchi drew a mixed review — while the fish was moist and flavorful, and the small potato pockets themselves were airy and soft enough to compare favorably with those produced in prestigious kitchens — the flavors and textures ultimately drowned in the vast amount of pesto-flavored olive oil covering everything.

Again, we ordered a bottle of red and white wine from Argentina and Chile which were both very pleasing and, at about 80.00 Reais (40.00 US dollars) each, quite a bargain. Along with one caipirinha cocktail and two couverts – those delicious dips and spreads served with bread and endive spears at the beginning of the meal — the bill came to 450.00 Reais, inclusive of tax and tip. Quintal was fully booked that night, and all of us seemed to revel in the wonderful food and special attention given to us by Neilso and his courteous staff. This time, though, standing in the doorway of his home, he wished us a knowing farewell — it would take us a bit longer to find our way back to his kitchen table. But eventually, we will.

Quintal

Phone: (22) 2623-1934

Cell: (22) 9976-9844

E-mail: quintalbuzios@terra.com.br

We're still here in Buzios, weathering the occasional tropical storm, high humidity and relentless mosquitoes, but nevertheless are happy and content thanks to the natural beauty and friendly people of this Brazilian gem. We’re settling for more home-cooked meals these days, because moonlit nights on our terrace overlooking the ocean and fresh local lobsters ($4.70 apiece at the fish market) grilled over charcoal and served with a chilled, crisp Chilean sauvignon blanc are pretty hard to beat.

Weekends usually have us out and about further exploring the town's restaurant scene and stopping in our favorite places for some music or conversation with acquaintances. Last week's highlight was a motorboat trip along most of the peninsula’s coastline – on the occasion of my sweetheart's birthday - with an onboard lunch of grilled chicken, fruit and baguette, along with a few cold Heineken beers and some snorkeling while anchored off a tiny sandy cove called Lover’s Beach. Our captain and proprietor of the boat, a local fellow named Jonas, surprised us with freshly made caipirinhas and a mix of Brazilian hip-hop music sounding from some hidden speakers – that’s the life. Also, it was fun seeing Buzios’ various settled and unsettled bays looking in from the water, and we took note of a few harder-to-get-to beaches worth exploring. Jonas had us back on shore in time for a short nap before we headed out again to a surprise birthday dinner at a chef’s beautiful private home - there definitely will be a review of this evening!

Jonas and his boat – the ITAUNAMAR – can be found at the Marina Azul just outside of town, and the hourly rate is negotiable depending on the season and the overall length of the charter. Phone: (22)2623-6672 or (22)9909-7598

On a more sober note, President Bush's recent visit to São Paulo highlighted Brazil's precarious humanitarian and economic situation. Even though this is a vast country with seemingly inexhaustible natural resources, including the Amazon, a 4,600 mile stretch of coastline, and the inland high plains of Mato Grosso and Rondonia, Brazil still largely depends on foreign aid to solve its problems of widespread poverty and a lopsided economy. Here the richest 1% of the population earns 12% of the country's income, while the poorest 50% earns just 10%. This translates to about 40 million people living on $48.00 US dollars or less a month, with a third of the population surviving on less than a dollar a day. We’ve all seen pictures of Rio’s famed “favelas”—the shantytowns home to the city’s less fortunate inhabitants—and reportedly there are countless communities not as well-off as Buzios, with its influx of tourism, where elderly women search through garbage along the roads to survive on money made from recyclables. So, if you make your home in a metropolitan or rural area where you are witnessing growing disparity and poverty, and you wish a reprieve from it, Brazil might not be the place you want to visit.

We try to hold this reality in our consciousness and be appreciative while walking on the sunny side of the street here in Buzios. And in practical terms, we make sure to also patronize and support some of the more entrepreneurial local eateries and shops. One of them is a bistro-like small restaurant, complete with a French waitress originally from Marseilles, called Bar do Mangue.

Bar do Mangue

Bar do Mangue is tucked into a grove of shade trees just off Manguinhos Beach next to the “Colonia de Pescadores”, the town’s small commercial fishing pier and market.

An open kitchen is attached to a small glass pavilion which houses the bar and a few tables while the majority of them are scattered on an expansive wooden deck, protected by huge canvas umbrellas from the occasional rain. The atmosphere is casual and convivial, and the friendly, attentive waitstaff treats its regulars like family – we look forward to Virginia’s warm welcome, delivered in an endearing mix of her native French, Portuguese and English, as much as to the good meals and drinks she serves us. During Carnival season the restaurant occasionally offered live music, and since then we've always enjoyed the background music selection.

Bar do Mangue’s menu specializes in grilled meats and seafood, and features a small but attractive selection of appetizers, salads and sandwiches. Servings here are generous and the quality of the food is consistently good. All entrées are served with a side dish of one’s choice. There’s a full bar, beer on tap, and a small selection of bottled wines which your server will bring out to the table for inspection. Prices are moderate compared to restaurants downtown, with entrées ranging from 22.00 to 48.00 Reais and a decent bottle of Argentinean red to be had for 45.00 Reais.

Appetizers include a beef and a salmon carpaccio, appetizer portions of a grilled filet mignon, grilled sausages and grilled chicken breast, as well as breaded shrimp, shrimp Provencal and calamari Provencal. There is a choice of a simple green salad, a seafood salad with shrimp, calamari and tomatoes, or a mixed salad with tomatoes and Gorgonzola called Salada Pierre. The menu lists three sandwiches – chicken, filet mignon and vegetarian – prepared with lettuce, tomatoes and sliced cheese. Gorgonzola and arugula are added to the vegetarian one.

Grilled entrées include filet mignon, chicken breast, duck breast, lamb chops, and white sausage or “Currywurst”. Usually three choices of fish are offered – dorado, salmon (imported from Chile), and a local sea bass called “badejo”, whose tender white flesh is truly delicious. The duck is served in an orange sauce and the lamb chops are prepared á la Provencal. The filet and the chicken breast can be ordered in a variety of preparations – grilled simply with Herbs de Provence, in a peppercorn sauce, with Gorgonzola, or in a wine sauce with a choice of either button mushrooms or shiitake mushrooms. The fish options are either grilled with olive oil, garlic and rosemary, or accompanied by a mustard-yogurt sauce, or in a sauce with shrimp and calamari. Side dishes include grilled mixed vegetables, roast potatoes, mashed local sweet potatoes, potatoes Provencal, and potatoes with rosemary.

On our first visit, we ordered the mixed salad with Gorgonzola (15.00 Reais), the filet of badejo grilled with olive oil, garlic and rosemary (38.00 Reais), and the filet mignon with shiitake mushrooms (35.00 Reais). As sides we chose the grilled mixed vegetables and the roast potatoes extra crisp. We enjoyed the food although the fish was salted rather heavily (a Brazilian custom), the filet was slightly overcooked, and the vegetables were somewhat saturated with olive oil. With a bottle of tasty Chilean reserve cabernet sauvignon for 130.00 Reais (the most expensive wine offered) and two beers and a caipirinha at the beginning of our meal, the bill came to 250.00 Reais including tax and a 10% tip.

Since then we've been back to Bar do Mangue many times and have enjoyed many good meals. After asking Virginia, our favorite waitress, for less salt and oil in our dishes, as well as a steak a touch more on the rare side, the food has been consistently right on, and the sea bass grilled with garlic and rosemary is so divine it's hard to pass up in favor of another dish. We've also discovered that the restaurant serves very yummy desserts (not on the menu), bought from a local pastry chef. So far, we've tasted a semi-frozen tiramisu and a chocolate cake with a warm molten center – both served with quality vanilla ice cream, and quite addictive (14.00 Reais)! We now mostly order an Argentinean malbec for 45.00 Reais which stands up well to the food, and have been averaging about 160.00 Reais for dinner – a true bargain for a fun and satisfying evening on the town.

Sawasdee is located in the more trendy Orla Bardot section of downtown, near Buzios’ two nightclubs – Zapata and Privilege. Diners can choose to be seated at candlelit sidewalk tables with a view across the bay, or in the tastefully decorated dining room with its Buddha sculptures and other Asian motifs. Even though the restaurant serves only Thai cuisine – or more accurately, Thai-inspired cuisine – its chef and proprietor is an amiable Brazilian from Rio de Janero, Marcos Sodre, who freely admits to adjusting authentic recipes to please his clientele’s tastes.

And that he does – Sawasdee is popular with visitors and locals alike, who consistently rate it as Buzios’ best or second-best place for dinner. So we had high expectations on our first visit, and I was admittedly looking forward to enjoying some jasmine rice, a personal favorite of mine.

We opted for an outdoor table and were greeted warmly by our waiter, who remained very attentive and helpful throughout the evening, offering mosquito repellent – no getting away from those critters – and materializing a pair of reading glasses we failed to bring along.

Upon reviewing the menu, we were immediately struck by the relatively high prices—not just compared to the other restaurants in town, but compared to the cost of Thai food in the United States. A chicken curry is priced at 48.00 Reais ($24.00 US dollars), a green curry with prawns, fish and calamari for two people costs a whooping 125.00 Reais, and even simple fried rice and noodle dishes will set you back between 40.00 and 46.00 Reais.

So, we figured we’d either be in for a real treat of super-quality ingredients prepared to perfection, or we’d walk out feeling somewhat ripped off.

We chose carefully from the extensive menu, which offers all the dishes representative of Thai cooking you’d find in Thai restaurants the world over. For appetizers we ordered braised short ribs with a pineapple dipping sauce and fried pastry shells filled with minced chicken, corn and peanuts. We also shared a shrimp soup enhanced by cilantro, broccoli and green beans.

The short ribs were succulent and delicious, as was the soup with its pleasantly spicy broth. The filled pastry shells didn’t make an impression, but we felt we were off to a happy start.

Our entrée choices were prawns in oyster sauce with mixed vegetables and mushrooms, and a filet of fish with carrots and broccoli cooked in coconut milk and seasoned with ginger. Both dishes were accompanied by bowls of steamed jasmine rice, and looked promising. The four large prawns were fresh and tasty, but the excessively salted oyster sauce overwhelmed the more delicate vegetables and mushrooms. The fish filet turned out to be a huge disappointment, since the quality of the fish was only so-so and the coconut milk sauce was utterly bland, with hardly a trace of ginger detectable. Neither was there any evidence of other pungent ingredients customarily used in Thai dishes, such as lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, basil, garlic, fish sauce, and hot chili peppers.

All in all, we rated the quality and taste of our dishes as good but certainly not worth the money. The bill for two appetizers, one soup and two entrees, along with the two beers, one mineral water and a caipirinha we enjoyed during dinner, came to 200.00 Reais including a 10% tip.

On a subsequent visit, the pad thai we ordered was very over-salted, but redone without question when we complained to the waiter. A green curry with fish – prepared upon request since the menu offers green curry only with beef or chicken – was anything but authentic. It lacked the heat and complexity of flavor that distinguishes this curry from its milder cousins, such as yellow or Massamam curry. Again, a base of coconut milk failed to deliver any of the flavor bursts so typical of the mixture of spices used in Thai cooking.

The blandness of the sauce was compounded by that of the fish which, this time around, had a rubbery consistency, and was unquestionably of poor quality. We shared a pleasant enough bottle of Chilean sauvignon blanc, and the spicy shrimp soup was as delicious as the first time around. So was the fluffy jasmine rice cooked with a touch of coconut milk – and we consoled ourselves with several complimentary refills.

Sawasdee, Av. Jose Bento Ribeiro Dantas 422, Orla Bardot, Buzios

www.sawasdee.com.br

marcossodre@mar.com.br

(22) 2623-4644, cell: (22) 9212-4066

P.S. After searching unsuccessfully for jasmine rice in all of Buzios’ food markets, I decided to approach Chef Marcos Sodre to find out where he purchases his supply for the restaurant. As it turns out, he receives shipments from Rio de Janero, and on arrival of the next one he kindly passed on 10 kilograms of this fragrant grain to me at cost.

The GastroNomad team is presently taking in sights and local culture in the quaint fishing village of Buzios, located 2.5 hours by car north of Rio de Janeiro. This town of 20,000 people occupies a peninsula featuring a variety of beaches ranging from longer stretches of sand to small hidden coves. Conditions are ideal for all water sports from world-class kite- and windsurfing to snorkeling and scuba diving.

Due to its proximity to Rio, Buzios hosts up to 80,000 visitors during the weeklong national holiday of Carnival, and is also a popular weekend destination during Brazil's summer months. The town offers numerous small hotels, bed and breakfast’s called “pousadas”, and an array of private vacation homes and condominiums for rent. Thankfully, there are no high-rise developments due to stringent local building codes, and outside of the high season Buzios remains a place of authentic Brazilian small-town life.

A piece of advice: We arrived in time for Carnival, expecting colorful parades led by samba schools to take over the downtown streets, and live samba and bossa nova music to fill the bars and clubs. Instead, we encountered scarce availability and vastly inflated prices for any kind of accommodation, as well as a week of jammed roads, beaches, restaurants, and shopping venues. There were no organized costumed parades and the music of choice in clubs, and at private beach gatherings or house parties, was definitely electronic house and pop – played 24/7 in highly amplified fashion. It’s best to sit this one out.

Buzios has a lively restaurant scene which profits from the plentiful fresh seafood available every day as well as the quality of most produce and meat produced in the area. Cattle here are pasture-raised and the taste of the beef is outstanding, yet it is inexpensive compared to prices in the US. We purchased about two pounds of top sirloin for the equivalent of two dollars! Brazilian food is characterized by a variety of tropical, exotic, hearty and spicy flavors, reflecting its African, Amerindian, and European racial mix. Restaurants serving local fare, often buffet style and priced on a per kilo basis, are complemented by a variety of more upscale places offering Italian, French, Mediterranean and Portuguese cuisine. Also popular are “churrascarias” which specialize in barbecued meats prepared South American style on large open charcoal grills There is even a Thai restaurant downtown but only one McDonald's and few burger-and-fries type of outlets. Pizza seems to be Brazil’s favorite fast food. There are small pizzerias everywhere and some version of the dish appears on most menus throughout town.

Beer is plentiful and inexpensive with the best brands being foreign ones such as Heineken and Bohemia. The country’s wine production is in its infancy, so better picks are the sauvignon blancs, cabernets, and malbecs from nearby Argentina and Chile sold in most restaurants and stores. The national drink is the “caiprihina”, a mixture of “cachaca”- a liquor distilled from sugarcane – crushed limes and sugar, served over ice. It tastes similar to a margarita and has quite a kick—as we found out.

Buzios boasts numerous places to sip your beverages of choice during a night out on the town, and on the weekend there’s often live music to be found. Thanks to the year-round warm temperatures, most restaurants and bars offer outdoor seating, some near the water or with an ocean view, others bistro-style for people watching. Spirits amongst patrons are usually high, with everybody enjoying themselves, each other, and the beauty of a starry night in the tropics. A word of caution – dinner in Brazil is a late affair and can easily last into the wee hours, so early birds will miss most of the fun. And most clubs do not open until 1 a.m., which may require a ‘pre-club’ rest.

Countless bakeries and ice cream parlors dispersed throughout downtown and the neighborhood areas testify to the sweet tooth enjoyed by many Brazilians. Some of the ice cream and sorbet we’ve tasted is fashioned after Italian gelato and it’s quite good, especially the tropical fruit flavors such as mango and passion fruit. Bread lovers will be disappointed though since whole grain and sourdough varieties are practically unknown here, and even a somewhat crispy baguette is hard to come by.

As we eat and drink our way around town, we’ll keep you posted on our most delicious and otherwise memorable adventures here in colorful Buzios.

Restaurante do Solar

Restaurante do Solar is a very small, eclectically furnished open-air restaurant situated along the Praia Armacao stretch of downtown Buzios. Its candle-lit tables and cozy couches create a romantic ambiance and the made-to-order food is reminiscent of being a guest at a friend’s home.

The restaurant is run by a French lady named Catherine de Jenlis, her Argentinean partner and fellow chef Ramon Barberis, and their amiable and attentive waiter Fabio who is also in charge of mixing drinks such as a delicious passionfruit caipirinha. Premium beer and a short but thoughtful wine list are available as well.

During our first evening, we chose a Viognier (60.00 Reais) with dinner, which was quite pleasing and came recommended by Catherine who happily translates into English the brief, chalk-board written menu. The selection changes daily and always includes a choice of two salads (25.00 Reais), two entrées (45.00 Reais), and two desserts (15.00 Reais). Depending on how many diners drop in, an offering might be replaced by another dish as the evening progresses.

The restaurant stays open late - it is not unusual for the chefs to prepare a meal to order at 1 a.m. in the morning – and patrons, which include many faithful regulars and friends, like to linger watching Catherine and Ramon do their magic in the small open kitchen while listening to bossa nova and soft jazz tunes from a portable stereo and enjoying cool beverages.

Dinner starts with a complimentary serving of Catherine’s own divinely smoky and garlicky aubergine dip accompanied by toasted pita bread chips. On two visits, we tried a salad composed of mixed lettuces and warm figs available with both goat and gorgonzola cheeses. For entrées we selected a delicious pork curry – made spicy on request – as well as a shrimp curry, both presented with fluffy couscous, mango chutney and house-made cooling satziki.

We finished with a nectarine and boysenberry tart, its sweetness nicely balanced by a dollop of crème fraiche.

Other entrée choices included a seared bacon-wrapped filet mignon with cauliflower gratin and roast lamb with a side of potatoes and grilled vegetables. We would have loved to try the duck in orange sauce roasting in the oven one night but it had several hours still to go.

A mixed salad topped with slices of duck and chicken liver pâté is offered frequently as an enthusiastic nod to Catherine’s culinary roots. A generous amount of fresh fish ceviche arranged on a plate of greens looked wonderful when served to a neighboring table, and tasted equally so—as our fellow diner assured us.

All dishes are made to order from ingredients purchased most likely that day in the markets, butcheries, and “peixarias” in and around Buzios by Catherine herself - and everything we've tasted was truly delicious.

Voilà, Restaurante do Solar has you enjoy food prepared with love and served with personality. We’ll surely return for many more meals and good times before leaving Buzios.            

restaurantedosolar@hotmail.com

Reservations: (22)2623-1850 or (22)9217-2539