Gastronomad

Quintal

Tina Meyer — Thu, 19 Apr 2007 20:05:00 -0400

Quintal combines the quality of cooking and service found in a first-rate restaurant with the experience of being invited into someone’s tasteful home for a leisurely dinner party. Quintal’s proprietor and chef — known in town fondly as "Neilso" — spent 20 years running a successful restaurant in Brazil’s capital city of Brasilia before semi-retiring to Buzios. Here he opens his home in the hills above Manguinhos Bay on Friday and Saturday nights to a lucky group of no more than 35 people who are ‘in the know’ about Buzios’ dining scene. Reservations are essential, especially during the summer season and on holidays when affluent visitors from Rio and São Paulo populate the town.

Neilso’s home is in a quiet residential neighborhood and he employs a person to help park his guests’ cars. He offers one seating per night at 9 p.m., and upon arrival you’re invited to enjoy a cocktail or a glass of champagne out on the deck where the illuminated waters of a pool and a serene Buddha sculpture enhance the starry sky. Once diners settle at their tables which are selected by Neilso in advance, the wait staff brings out a beautiful selection of spreads and dips along with a breadbasket and a martini glass filled with crisp endive spears. There is regular butter, passion fruit butter, plum chutney, an aubergine ratatouille, a garlicky sour cream dip, and a sweeter dill-flavored yogurt dip to choose from.

The short wine list focuses mainly on good vintages from Argentina and Chile, supplemented by a few European imports. No printed menu is presented since Neilso takes the time to visit each table and personally explain the choices of the evening to his guests. Due to the limitations imposed by his “home” kitchen, he offers no appetizers or salads beyond the initial couvert, and just seven entrée plates of homemade pasta, meat and seafood, as well as three desserts.

Each dish is made to order and we marveled at the beautiful presentations. A seafood fettuccine with large prawns, calamari and squid arrived at the table not only piping hot but also nestled in a large white seashell lined with purple bougainvillea flowers. Servings of gnocchi in pesto sauce are brought in individual small copper pans and are accompanied by a choice of oven-roasted fish, osso buco, or assorted seafood. Lamb chops arranged around a mound of “tropical” risotto in a colorful Portuguese ceramic dish are a feast for all the senses. On both of our visits we found the portions to be so generous that we couldn’t quite finish three plates split between the two of us, and had to pass on dessert.

Since I had only heard of Quintal by word of mouth (you couldn’t accidentally stumble upon its location, and, if so, there’s no signage to alert you), I saved a first reservation for the special occasion of my sweetheart’s birthday. I elicited quite a look of surprise on his face as we drove up the winding road to the address given me over the phone, and again when a friendly English-speaking waitress opened the front door to lead us into a spacious high-ceilinged room with an open kitchen at one end and tables of various sizes arranged throughout. Floor to ceiling windows and glass sliding doors open the space to the outdoors where a large deck with a pool and built-in benches is surrounded by lush tropical landscaping. A staircase leads to the upper private quarters, and Asian antiques, along with contemporary artworks, lend the space its eclectic and very personal feel of being in someone’s home — and, indeed, you are.

That evening we shared the fettuccine “Al Mare” with giant prawns, squid and calamari, the “Cordeiro” - grilled lamb chops with tropical risotto, and a dish called “Macaquito” — prawns in a banana-coconut milk sauce served with steamed rice. The fettuccine were cooked to just the right degree of “al dente” and blended deliciously with the plentiful and succulent seafood in a light cream sauce. The six flavorful lamb chops had been grilled to a perfect medium-rare and were offset nicely by the slight tartness of the risotto — steamed rice blended with finely diced tropical fruits. The prawns “Macaquito” style — a dish which originated in the coastal Bahia region of Brazil — didn’t please our palates quite as much. The huge prawns were fresh and tender but their taste was somewhat overwhelmed by the sweet sauce of pureed bananas in a coconut milk base which lacked the underlying spiciness Neilso had attributed to it earlier.

Other menu choices included the three preparations of house-made gnocchi — with seafood, osso buco or oven-roasted codfish — and a plate of Argentinean style dried beef served with grilled vegetables. Dishes that reconstitute dried fish or meat are quite popular among Brazilians but tend to be very salty, since large amounts of salt are used for preservation during the drying process. We decided to pass on it. We also found ourselves too satiated to consider desserts, though they sounded tempting — homemade Mascarpone cheese ice cream, fruit-filled crepes and a “Lady Di” cake were offered. Most tables seemed to be sharing some sweets, along with orders of coffee and tea.

Conversations kept flowing lively while Neilso made the rounds to check on his guests’ satisfaction, and it wasn’t until about midnight that most of us were ready to call it an evening. On the way out, we had to do a double-take—glancing one fellow diner, seated near the kitchen, who was animatedly enjoying his nightcap bare-chested. In Buzios the emphasis is definitely less on etiquette and more on having a good time, and, happy as we were, we decided to make another reservation for the following weekend. Our bill, inclusive of a 10% tip, came to 455.00 Reais. This included a bottle of fine Chilean sauvignon blanc (70.00 Reais) and a bottle of tasty Argentinean cabernet sauvignon (80.00 Reais), two mineral waters, and a 24.00 Reais charge for the opening couvert.

Anticipating another bounty of culinary delights, we arrived for our second dinner on time and with a healthy appetite, not wanting to miss anything. We were again charmed by the atmosphere and the graciousness of our host, content with our assigned corner table, and were heading toward the outside deck for cocktails when we passed the small chalkboard posted near the kitchen listing the evening’s menu. To our surprise, all the items — a total of seven entrée plates and three desserts — were identical to those offered the week before, the only exception being the fish served with the gnocchi was grouper this time around. An inquiry of our English-speaking waitress revealed that the menu at Quintal rarely changes since it’s been a formula for success and most guests are out-of-towners who visit only occasionally.

We decided to make the best of it, and reordered the fettuccine “Al Mare” and the lamb chops, which had both been exceptional. And we were swayed to order the gnocchi with oven-roasted grouper, since the dish is billed as Chef Neilso’s specialty. Once again, the presentations were beautiful and the portions generous, and the fettuccine and lamb chops were cooked to perfection. The gnocchi drew a mixed review — while the fish was moist and flavorful, and the small potato pockets themselves were airy and soft enough to compare favorably with those produced in prestigious kitchens — the flavors and textures ultimately drowned in the vast amount of pesto-flavored olive oil covering everything.

Again, we ordered a bottle of red and white wine from Argentina and Chile which were both very pleasing and, at about 80.00 Reais (40.00 US dollars) each, quite a bargain. Along with one caipirinha cocktail and two couverts – those delicious dips and spreads served with bread and endive spears at the beginning of the meal — the bill came to 450.00 Reais, inclusive of tax and tip. Quintal was fully booked that night, and all of us seemed to revel in the wonderful food and special attention given to us by Neilso and his courteous staff. This time, though, standing in the doorway of his home, he wished us a knowing farewell — it would take us a bit longer to find our way back to his kitchen table. But eventually, we will.

Quintal

Phone: (22) 2623-1934

Cell: (22) 9976-9844

E-mail: quintalbuzios@terra.com.br

Site: www.quintalbuzios.com.br

Buzios Update

Tina Meyer — Wed, 11 Apr 2007 23:51:00 -0400

We're still here in Buzios, weathering the occasional tropical storm, high humidity and relentless mosquitoes, but nevertheless are happy and content thanks to the natural beauty and friendly people of this Brazilian gem. We’re settling for more home-cooked meals these days, because moonlit nights on our terrace overlooking the ocean and fresh local lobsters ($4.70 apiece at the fish market) grilled over charcoal and served with a chilled, crisp Chilean sauvignon blanc are pretty hard to beat.

Weekends usually have us out and about further exploring the town's restaurant scene and stopping in our favorite places for some music or conversation with acquaintances. Last week's highlight was a motorboat trip along most of the peninsula’s coastline – on the occasion of my sweetheart's birthday - with an onboard lunch of grilled chicken, fruit and baguette, along with a few cold Heineken beers and some snorkeling while anchored off a tiny sandy cove called Lover’s Beach. Our captain and proprietor of the boat, a local fellow named Jonas, surprised us with freshly made caipirinhas and a mix of Brazilian hip-hop music sounding from some hidden speakers – that’s the life. Also, it was fun seeing Buzios’ various settled and unsettled bays looking in from the water, and we took note of a few harder-to-get-to beaches worth exploring. Jonas had us back on shore in time for a short nap before we headed out again to a surprise birthday dinner at a chef’s beautiful private home - there definitely will be a review of this evening!

Jonas and his boat – the ITAUNAMAR – can be found at the Marina Azul just outside of town, and the hourly rate is negotiable depending on the season and the overall length of the charter. Phone: (22)2623-6672 or (22)9909-7598

On a more sober note, President Bush's recent visit to São Paulo highlighted Brazil's precarious humanitarian and economic situation. Even though this is a vast country with seemingly inexhaustible natural resources, including the Amazon, a 4,600 mile stretch of coastline, and the inland high plains of Mato Grosso and Rondonia, Brazil still largely depends on foreign aid to solve its problems of widespread poverty and a lopsided economy. Here the richest 1% of the population earns 12% of the country's income, while the poorest 50% earns just 10%. This translates to about 40 million people living on $48.00 US dollars or less a month, with a third of the population surviving on less than a dollar a day. We’ve all seen pictures of Rio’s famed “favelas”—the shantytowns home to the city’s less fortunate inhabitants—and reportedly there are countless communities not as well-off as Buzios, with its influx of tourism, where elderly women search through garbage along the roads to survive on money made from recyclables. So, if you make your home in a metropolitan or rural area where you are witnessing growing disparity and poverty, and you wish a reprieve from it, Brazil might not be the place you want to visit.

We try to hold this reality in our consciousness and be appreciative while walking on the sunny side of the street here in Buzios. And in practical terms, we make sure to also patronize and support some of the more entrepreneurial local eateries and shops. One of them is a bistro-like small restaurant, complete with a French waitress originally from Marseilles, called Bar do Mangue.

Bar do Mangue

Bar do Mangue is tucked into a grove of shade trees just off Manguinhos Beach next to the “Colonia de Pescadores”, the town’s small commercial fishing pier and market.

An open kitchen is attached to a small glass pavilion which houses the bar and a few tables while the majority of them are scattered on an expansive wooden deck, protected by huge canvas umbrellas from the occasional rain. The atmosphere is casual and convivial, and the friendly, attentive waitstaff treats its regulars like family – we look forward to Virginia’s warm welcome, delivered in an endearing mix of her native French, Portuguese and English, as much as to the good meals and drinks she serves us. During Carnival season the restaurant occasionally offered live music, and since then we've always enjoyed the background music selection.

Bar do Mangue’s menu specializes in grilled meats and seafood, and features a small but attractive selection of appetizers, salads and sandwiches. Servings here are generous and the quality of the food is consistently good. All entrées are served with a side dish of one’s choice. There’s a full bar, beer on tap, and a small selection of bottled wines which your server will bring out to the table for inspection. Prices are moderate compared to restaurants downtown, with entrées ranging from 22.00 to 48.00 Reais and a decent bottle of Argentinean red to be had for 45.00 Reais.

Appetizers include a beef and a salmon carpaccio, appetizer portions of a grilled filet mignon, grilled sausages and grilled chicken breast, as well as breaded shrimp, shrimp Provencal and calamari Provencal. There is a choice of a simple green salad, a seafood salad with shrimp, calamari and tomatoes, or a mixed salad with tomatoes and Gorgonzola called Salada Pierre. The menu lists three sandwiches – chicken, filet mignon and vegetarian – prepared with lettuce, tomatoes and sliced cheese. Gorgonzola and arugula are added to the vegetarian one.

Grilled entrées include filet mignon, chicken breast, duck breast, lamb chops, and white sausage or “Currywurst”. Usually three choices of fish are offered – dorado, salmon (imported from Chile), and a local sea bass called “badejo”, whose tender white flesh is truly delicious. The duck is served in an orange sauce and the lamb chops are prepared á la Provencal. The filet and the chicken breast can be ordered in a variety of preparations – grilled simply with Herbs de Provence, in a peppercorn sauce, with Gorgonzola, or in a wine sauce with a choice of either button mushrooms or shiitake mushrooms. The fish options are either grilled with olive oil, garlic and rosemary, or accompanied by a mustard-yogurt sauce, or in a sauce with shrimp and calamari. Side dishes include grilled mixed vegetables, roast potatoes, mashed local sweet potatoes, potatoes Provencal, and potatoes with rosemary.

On our first visit, we ordered the mixed salad with Gorgonzola (15.00 Reais), the filet of badejo grilled with olive oil, garlic and rosemary (38.00 Reais), and the filet mignon with shiitake mushrooms (35.00 Reais). As sides we chose the grilled mixed vegetables and the roast potatoes extra crisp. We enjoyed the food although the fish was salted rather heavily (a Brazilian custom), the filet was slightly overcooked, and the vegetables were somewhat saturated with olive oil. With a bottle of tasty Chilean reserve cabernet sauvignon for 130.00 Reais (the most expensive wine offered) and two beers and a caipirinha at the beginning of our meal, the bill came to 250.00 Reais including tax and a 10% tip.

Since then we've been back to Bar do Mangue many times and have enjoyed many good meals. After asking Virginia, our favorite waitress, for less salt and oil in our dishes, as well as a steak a touch more on the rare side, the food has been consistently right on, and the sea bass grilled with garlic and rosemary is so divine it's hard to pass up in favor of another dish. We've also discovered that the restaurant serves very yummy desserts (not on the menu), bought from a local pastry chef. So far, we've tasted a semi-frozen tiramisu and a chocolate cake with a warm molten center – both served with quality vanilla ice cream, and quite addictive (14.00 Reais)! We now mostly order an Argentinean malbec for 45.00 Reais which stands up well to the food, and have been averaging about 160.00 Reais for dinner – a true bargain for a fun and satisfying evening on the town.

Sawasdee — Sabores da Tailandia

Tina Meyer — Wed, 11 Apr 2007 22:31:00 -0400

Sawasdee is located in the more trendy Orla Bardot section of downtown, near Buzios’ two nightclubs – Zapata and Privilege. Diners can choose to be seated at candlelit sidewalk tables with a view across the bay, or in the tastefully decorated dining room with its Buddha sculptures and other Asian motifs. Even though the restaurant serves only Thai cuisine – or more accurately, Thai-inspired cuisine – its chef and proprietor is an amiable Brazilian from Rio de Janero, Marcos Sodre, who freely admits to adjusting authentic recipes to please his clientele’s tastes.

And that he does – Sawasdee is popular with visitors and locals alike, who consistently rate it as Buzios’ best or second-best place for dinner. So we had high expectations on our first visit, and I was admittedly looking forward to enjoying some jasmine rice, a personal favorite of mine.

We opted for an outdoor table and were greeted warmly by our waiter, who remained very attentive and helpful throughout the evening, offering mosquito repellent – no getting away from those critters – and materializing a pair of reading glasses we failed to bring along.

Upon reviewing the menu, we were immediately struck by the relatively high prices—not just compared to the other restaurants in town, but compared to the cost of Thai food in the United States. A chicken curry is priced at 48.00 Reais ($24.00 US dollars), a green curry with prawns, fish and calamari for two people costs a whooping 125.00 Reais, and even simple fried rice and noodle dishes will set you back between 40.00 and 46.00 Reais.

So, we figured we’d either be in for a real treat of super-quality ingredients prepared to perfection, or we’d walk out feeling somewhat ripped off.

We chose carefully from the extensive menu, which offers all the dishes representative of Thai cooking you’d find in Thai restaurants the world over. For appetizers we ordered braised short ribs with a pineapple dipping sauce and fried pastry shells filled with minced chicken, corn and peanuts. We also shared a shrimp soup enhanced by cilantro, broccoli and green beans.

The short ribs were succulent and delicious, as was the soup with its pleasantly spicy broth. The filled pastry shells didn’t make an impression, but we felt we were off to a happy start.

Our entrée choices were prawns in oyster sauce with mixed vegetables and mushrooms, and a filet of fish with carrots and broccoli cooked in coconut milk and seasoned with ginger. Both dishes were accompanied by bowls of steamed jasmine rice, and looked promising. The four large prawns were fresh and tasty, but the excessively salted oyster sauce overwhelmed the more delicate vegetables and mushrooms. The fish filet turned out to be a huge disappointment, since the quality of the fish was only so-so and the coconut milk sauce was utterly bland, with hardly a trace of ginger detectable. Neither was there any evidence of other pungent ingredients customarily used in Thai dishes, such as lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, basil, garlic, fish sauce, and hot chili peppers.

All in all, we rated the quality and taste of our dishes as good but certainly not worth the money. The bill for two appetizers, one soup and two entrees, along with the two beers, one mineral water and a caipirinha we enjoyed during dinner, came to 200.00 Reais including a 10% tip.

On a subsequent visit, the pad thai we ordered was very over-salted, but redone without question when we complained to the waiter. A green curry with fish – prepared upon request since the menu offers green curry only with beef or chicken – was anything but authentic. It lacked the heat and complexity of flavor that distinguishes this curry from its milder cousins, such as yellow or Massamam curry. Again, a base of coconut milk failed to deliver any of the flavor bursts so typical of the mixture of spices used in Thai cooking.

The blandness of the sauce was compounded by that of the fish which, this time around, had a rubbery consistency, and was unquestionably of poor quality. We shared a pleasant enough bottle of Chilean sauvignon blanc, and the spicy shrimp soup was as delicious as the first time around. So was the fluffy jasmine rice cooked with a touch of coconut milk – and we consoled ourselves with several complimentary refills.

Sawasdee, Av. Jose Bento Ribeiro Dantas 422, Orla Bardot, Buzios

www.sawasdee.com.br

marcossodre@mar.com.br

(22) 2623-4644, cell: (22) 9212-4066

P.S. After searching unsuccessfully for jasmine rice in all of Buzios’ food markets, I decided to approach Chef Marcos Sodre to find out where he purchases his supply for the restaurant. As it turns out, he receives shipments from Rio de Janero, and on arrival of the next one he kindly passed on 10 kilograms of this fragrant grain to me at cost.

On The Beat in Buzios, Brazil

Tina Meyer — Fri, 23 Mar 2007 21:41:00 -0400

The GastroNomad team is presently taking in sights and local culture in the quaint fishing village of Buzios, located 2.5 hours by car north of Rio de Janeiro. This town of 20,000 people occupies a peninsula featuring a variety of beaches ranging from longer stretches of sand to small hidden coves. Conditions are ideal for all water sports from world-class kite- and windsurfing to snorkeling and scuba diving.

Due to its proximity to Rio, Buzios hosts up to 80,000 visitors during the weeklong national holiday of Carnival, and is also a popular weekend destination during Brazil's summer months. The town offers numerous small hotels, bed and breakfast’s called “pousadas”, and an array of private vacation homes and condominiums for rent. Thankfully, there are no high-rise developments due to stringent local building codes, and outside of the high season Buzios remains a place of authentic Brazilian small-town life.

A piece of advice: We arrived in time for Carnival, expecting colorful parades led by samba schools to take over the downtown streets, and live samba and bossa nova music to fill the bars and clubs. Instead, we encountered scarce availability and vastly inflated prices for any kind of accommodation, as well as a week of jammed roads, beaches, restaurants, and shopping venues. There were no organized costumed parades and the music of choice in clubs, and at private beach gatherings or house parties, was definitely electronic house and pop – played 24/7 in highly amplified fashion. It’s best to sit this one out.

Buzios has a lively restaurant scene which profits from the plentiful fresh seafood available every day as well as the quality of most produce and meat produced in the area. Cattle here are pasture-raised and the taste of the beef is outstanding, yet it is inexpensive compared to prices in the US. We purchased about two pounds of top sirloin for the equivalent of two dollars! Brazilian food is characterized by a variety of tropical, exotic, hearty and spicy flavors, reflecting its African, Amerindian, and European racial mix. Restaurants serving local fare, often buffet style and priced on a per kilo basis, are complemented by a variety of more upscale places offering Italian, French, Mediterranean and Portuguese cuisine. Also popular are “churrascarias” which specialize in barbecued meats prepared South American style on large open charcoal grills There is even a Thai restaurant downtown but only one McDonald's and few burger-and-fries type of outlets. Pizza seems to be Brazil’s favorite fast food. There are small pizzerias everywhere and some version of the dish appears on most menus throughout town.

Beer is plentiful and inexpensive with the best brands being foreign ones such as Heineken and Bohemia. The country’s wine production is in its infancy, so better picks are the sauvignon blancs, cabernets, and malbecs from nearby Argentina and Chile sold in most restaurants and stores. The national drink is the “caiprihina”, a mixture of “cachaca”- a liquor distilled from sugarcane – crushed limes and sugar, served over ice. It tastes similar to a margarita and has quite a kick—as we found out.

Buzios boasts numerous places to sip your beverages of choice during a night out on the town, and on the weekend there’s often live music to be found. Thanks to the year-round warm temperatures, most restaurants and bars offer outdoor seating, some near the water or with an ocean view, others bistro-style for people watching. Spirits amongst patrons are usually high, with everybody enjoying themselves, each other, and the beauty of a starry night in the tropics. A word of caution – dinner in Brazil is a late affair and can easily last into the wee hours, so early birds will miss most of the fun. And most clubs do not open until 1 a.m., which may require a ‘pre-club’ rest.

Countless bakeries and ice cream parlors dispersed throughout downtown and the neighborhood areas testify to the sweet tooth enjoyed by many Brazilians. Some of the ice cream and sorbet we’ve tasted is fashioned after Italian gelato and it’s quite good, especially the tropical fruit flavors such as mango and passion fruit. Bread lovers will be disappointed though since whole grain and sourdough varieties are practically unknown here, and even a somewhat crispy baguette is hard to come by.

As we eat and drink our way around town, we’ll keep you posted on our most delicious and otherwise memorable adventures here in colorful Buzios.

Restaurante do Solar

Restaurante do Solar is a very small, eclectically furnished open-air restaurant situated along the Praia Armacao stretch of downtown Buzios. Its candle-lit tables and cozy couches create a romantic ambiance and the made-to-order food is reminiscent of being a guest at a friend’s home.

The restaurant is run by a French lady named Catherine de Jenlis, her Argentinean partner and fellow chef Ramon Barberis, and their amiable and attentive waiter Fabio who is also in charge of mixing drinks such as a delicious passionfruit caipirinha. Premium beer and a short but thoughtful wine list are available as well.

During our first evening, we chose a Viognier (60.00 Reais) with dinner, which was quite pleasing and came recommended by Catherine who happily translates into English the brief, chalk-board written menu. The selection changes daily and always includes a choice of two salads (25.00 Reais), two entrées (45.00 Reais), and two desserts (15.00 Reais). Depending on how many diners drop in, an offering might be replaced by another dish as the evening progresses.

The restaurant stays open late - it is not unusual for the chefs to prepare a meal to order at 1 a.m. in the morning – and patrons, which include many faithful regulars and friends, like to linger watching Catherine and Ramon do their magic in the small open kitchen while listening to bossa nova and soft jazz tunes from a portable stereo and enjoying cool beverages.

Dinner starts with a complimentary serving of Catherine’s own divinely smoky and garlicky aubergine dip accompanied by toasted pita bread chips. On two visits, we tried a salad composed of mixed lettuces and warm figs available with both goat and gorgonzola cheeses. For entrées we selected a delicious pork curry – made spicy on request – as well as a shrimp curry, both presented with fluffy couscous, mango chutney and house-made cooling satziki.

We finished with a nectarine and boysenberry tart, its sweetness nicely balanced by a dollop of crème fraiche.

Other entrée choices included a seared bacon-wrapped filet mignon with cauliflower gratin and roast lamb with a side of potatoes and grilled vegetables. We would have loved to try the duck in orange sauce roasting in the oven one night but it had several hours still to go.

A mixed salad topped with slices of duck and chicken liver pâté is offered frequently as an enthusiastic nod to Catherine’s culinary roots. A generous amount of fresh fish ceviche arranged on a plate of greens looked wonderful when served to a neighboring table, and tasted equally so—as our fellow diner assured us.

All dishes are made to order from ingredients purchased most likely that day in the markets, butcheries, and “peixarias” in and around Buzios by Catherine herself - and everything we've tasted was truly delicious.

Voilà, Restaurante do Solar has you enjoy food prepared with love and served with personality. We’ll surely return for many more meals and good times before leaving Buzios.

restaurantedosolar@hotmail.com

Reservations: (22)2623-1850 or (22)9217-2539

Gourmet Magazine’s 2006 Choice of America’s Top 50 Restaurants

Tina Meyer — Wed, 21 Mar 2007 19:41:00 -0400

As we quickly are leaving the year 2006 behind, a number of choices from Gourmet Magazine’s Top 50 list of America’s best restaurants are worth mentioning here for those of you who may have missed Gourmet’s October issue.

Alinea in Chicago, where Chef Grant Achatz is redefining cooking as well as the eating-out experience, newly took the Number One honors.

The remainders of the Top Ten include mostly household names of American elite dining:

Number 02: Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Chef Alice Waters

Number 03: The French Laundry & Per Se in Yountville & NYC, Chef Thomas Keller

Number 04: Spago in Beverly Hills, Chef Wolfgang Puck

Number 05: Joel Robuchon at the Mansion in Las Vegas, Chef Joel Robuchon

Number 06: Le Rêve in San Antonio, Chef Andrew Weissman

Number 07: Masa in New York City, Chef Masayoshi Takayama

Number 08: Alan Wong’s Restaurant in Honolulu, Chef Alan Wong

Number 09: Daniel in New York City, Chef Daniel Boulud

Number 10: Le Bernadine in New York City, Chef Eric Ripert

Following are GastroNomad’s fifteen picks "off the beaten path. Rankings reflect Gourmet Magazine’s:

Number 11: Magnolia Grill in Durham, North Carolina, Chef Ben Barker

Number 14: Arrows in Ogunquit, Maine, Chefs Mark Gaier and Clark Frasier

Number 15: Cyrus in Healdsburg, California, Chef Douglas Keane

Number 20: L’Auberge Carmel in Carmel, California, Chef Walter Manzke

Number 25: Vetri in Philadelphia, Chef Marc Vetri

Number 26: Fore Street in Portland, Maine, Chef Sam Hayward

Number 28: Higgins in Portland, Oregon, Chef Greg Higgins

Number 31: Parker’s New American Bistro in Cleveland, no chef listed

Number 33: Frasca in Boulder, Colorado, Chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson

Number 39: Bacchanalia in Atlanta, Chef Anne Quatrano

Number 41: York Street in Dallas, Chef Sharon Hage

Number 42: Manresa in Los Gatos, California, Chef David Kinch

Number 43: No. 9 Park in Boston, Chef Barbara Lynch

Number 45: Café Juanita in Kirkland, Washington, Chef Holly Smith

Number 47: Lantern Restaurant in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, Chef Andrea Rensing

Hopefully we’ll see you at one of these choice tables soon, supporting the fine work our chefs are doing all across the country!

Newest Trend in Travel: Luxury Tented Resorts

Tina Meyer — Wed, 21 Mar 2007 19:02:00 -0400

The “less-is-more” sophistication of luxury “tented” resorts operated in Africa and Asia emerged as the newest travel trend in 2006. These camps offer guests a unique experience in that they retain a true sense of place and culture, rather than being a transplant of the American resort model to an exotic locale. The resorts listed here – with the exception of the Four Seasons – are located in close proximity to national parks and wildlife reserves, and they emphasize ecological harmony and sustainability in their design, operation, and choice of activities. Maybe a visit to one of them should be on your globetrotting list.

Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle

On a tributary of the Mekong River, located where the countries of Thailand, Myanmar and Laos border in the so-called “Golden Triangle”, the Four Seasons chain has built a camp in which just fifteen “tree houses” serve as the only accommodations. Each house is an open, tented structure suspended by steel frames in a suitable tree. No room service is offered but the restaurant serves local organic foods, and one can relax around a pool or in the open-air spa. Part of the experience is the interaction with elephants rescued from the now banned logging trade. Guests are welcome to ride, feed, and bathe them, and share their sentiments with those left at home by logging on to the resort’s WiFi service.
www.fourseasons.com/goldentriangle

Vanyavilas

Vanyavilas is situated on the edge of Ranthambhore National Park in the Indian state of Rajasthan. The park is one of the world's most important tiger reserves and the resort offers 4-wheel drive tours for guests to encounter these majestic animals in their natural habitat. Accommodations consist of twenty-five spacious tents, and an outdoor restaurant serves Indian and European cuisine. The property also includes a pool, a spa, and a fitness tent.
www.oberoihotels.com

Aman-i-Khas

Also located alongside the Ranthambhore reserve is the Aman-i-Khas compound where upscale Aman Resorts offers ten chic tents designed in the minimalist “Mughal” tradition. Additional tent structures house a restaurant serving Indian and Western meals, as well as a library and a spa. Camel safaris are organized on request.
www.amanresorts.com

Marataba

The Marataba camp is found three hours north of Johannesburg at South Africa’s expansive Marakele National Park. There's a main lodge built of glass and stone in addition to twelve sleek tents decorated with contemporary furniture and African artifacts. Guests can choose between spending time at the 40-foot pool or joining one of the daily organized walks and drives into the park for game viewing. Afterwards, dinner is served in the glass-walled restaurant and on its romantic terrace.
www.hunterhotels.com

Onguma Tented Camp

Onguma is made up of just seven white canvas suites with rustic-chic interiors and private patios which overlook an active watering hole attracting the area’s abundant wildlife. The camp borders onto the Etosha National Park in northern Namibia.
www.ongumanamibia.com

Cottars 1920’s Camp

Set in Kenya’s famous Masai Mara Park, Cottars has been offering game drives, hikes, fishing, and visits to a nearby Masai village since 1919. The compound includes eight tents furnished with antique campaign chests, desks, and poster beds, and a candle-lit dining tent for glamorous dinners after the day’s activities.
www.cottars.com

A Tout de Suite Easter Treat: <br>Chocolate and Champagne

Tina Meyer — Mon, 12 Mar 2007 19:42:00 -0400

With Easter fast approaching, here are some "sweet" gift ideas for that special sweetheart in your life. How about leaving those ganache eggs in a Sunday morning Easter basket? Or ordering some out-of-this-world artisanal chocolate from one of these chocolatiers extraordinaire?

And what would be more “Easter heavenly” than cleaning the palate with a cool, bubbly sip of champagne in between bites of hazelnut praline and espresso caramel? Here are some top picks which not only deliver world-class taste, but also delight the eye with beautifully designed bottles and wrappers…

CHOCOLATES

In New York City:

Richart Design et Chocolat on 7 East 55^th Street
Uses only criollo chocolate. Offers seasonal items and house-made chocolate spread.
($15.00 for 12.3 ounces)

Kee’s Chocolates on 80 Thompson Street
All wares are handmade and fresh every day.
($11.00 for a box of six)

Debauve & Gallais on 20 East 69^th Street
This chocolatier can count Marie Antoinette and Proust amongst former devotees.
($40.00 for a quarter pound)

MarieBelle on 484 Broome Street
Sells hand-painted chocolates and spicy hot chocolate mix which can be enjoyed in the store’s own tea room.
($17.00 for a one-ounce tin)

La Maison du Chocolat on 1018 Madison Avenue
Makes delicious bonbons with names such as Traviata, Bresilien, Cannelle, and Romeo.
($70.00 for 50 pieces)

Online:

Chocolate Deities at www.chocolatedeities.com
Choose between the Buddha and Celtic bad girl Sheela Na Gig, amongst others, and order them in milk, dark, or gold-painted chocolate.
($28.00 minimum order)

Garrison Confections at www.garrisonconfections.com
Offers seasonal collections, such as the Autumn Equinox box featuring chocolates made with cranberries, oranges, figs, and anise.
($20.00 for a 12-piece box)

Recchiuti Confections at www.recchiuticonfections.com
Big, bold, and truly decadent chocolates made by a self-taught master.
($75.00 for the 32-piece Burgundy box)

Christopher Elbow at www.christopherelbowchocolates.com
Creates artisanal chocolate which combines harmoniously such ingredients as espresso with lemon and caramel with fleur de sel.
($38.00 for 21 pieces)

L.A. Burdick at www.burdickchocolate.com
Handmade treasures like chocolate mice with long tails, mousse-stuffed penguins, and pate de fruit: chocolate-dipped orange peel.
($29.00–$32.00 for a 9-piece animal box, $8.50 for a quarter pound of fruit)

CHAMPAGNE

Dom Perignon 1998: “A Bottle Named Desire”
A great vintage presented in a limited edition gold-studded bottle and a semi-opaque jewel case designed and signed by Karl Lagerfeld - truly desirable.
($2,500.00)

Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rose 2000
Taittinger’s prestige offering, the newly released Comtes Rose 2000, is surely an aristocrat among champagnes.
($205.00)

Nicolas Feuillatte 1997 Cuvee Palmes d’Or Brut
A delicious bubbly enhanced by its unique rotund-shaped and textured glass bottle, and its stylish gold-hued case complete with a black velvet bag.
($125.00)

Bollinger 1997 La Grande Année
The impressive vintage tête de cuvée is made in Bollinger’s typical style of ripe, developed fruit flavors and toasty notes from oak barrel fermentation.
($120.00)

Krug Rosé
For the first time, this classic multi-vintage blend is made available in half bottles, the only prestige rosé to be released in this format.
($120.00 for 375ml)

Veuve Clicquot Rare Vintage 1988 Brut
The Rare Vintage 1988 is from a year noted for its supreme delicacy. It is packaged in a stackable high-tech box designed by Pablo Reinoso, consulting creative director at Kenzo, Loewe, and Givenchy. And it ages remarkably well!
($85.00)

Salon Le Mesnil 1996 Blanc de Blancs
An exquisite champagne and the only one currently released by the high-reputation but low-profile House of Salon. Its superbly rich, complex yet balanced flavors are best enjoyed from a tulip-shaped glass which gives the bouquet room to blossom.
($300.00)

Charles Heidsieck “Champagne Charlie” Brut Vintage 1985
This creamy, intense library reserve is named after the founder of the House of Heidsieck whose successful marketing tours through the United States earned him the nick-name “Champagne Charlie”. It acquires its extra fine bubbles while aging in 2000-year-old chalk caves once used by the Romans.
($125.00)

Perrier Jouet 2002 Fleur de Champagne Rose
When a hand-crafted anemone bottle created in the early 20^th century by art-nouveau glass artist Emile Galle was rediscovered in 1964 in the cellars of the Perrier Jouet estate, it inspired the conception of a new champagne, Cuvee Belle Époque. Released in the United States as Fleur de Champagne, the bottle and its lovely content epitomize the elegance of days gone by.
($170.00)

Deutz 1999 Amour de Deutz

A wonderful blanc de blancs indulging the connoisseur with intense fruit flavors and stunning complexity. The 1999 Amour de Deutz is offered in a special gift box, along with two champagne flutes and sealed with a gold embossed angel.
($206)

A weeklong getaway to Puerto Rico

Tina Meyer — Thu, 08 Mar 2007 13:45:00 -0500

Based on past experiences, we chose to stay at the Ritz-Carlton San Juan Hotel, Spa and Casino. Unfortunately, the hotel is located on the beach in an uncomfortable proximity to the airport with regards to aircraft noise and exhaust fumes drifting across the property.

After a mediocre breakfast at the all-day dining Caribbean Grill and a look at the pricey menu of the hotel’s dinner-only Prime 787 steakhouse, we decided against exploring the Ritz’s various dining venues.

We did have a few lunches at the poolside The Ocean Bar & Grill which offers casual fare such as pizza, pasta, sandwiches and salads, as well as a delectable seafood ceviche. There is also a sushi bar adjacent to the Prime 787 space, and a Chinese restaurant located inside the casino.

The Lobby Lounge as well as The Casino Lounge offer live evening entertainment along with cocktails and a light hors d'oeuvre selection throughout the day.

We researched a number of local clubs for live music and DJ dancing, especially trying to find a venue for Puerto Rico's own “Reggaeton” style of music.

Here's a list of clubs recommended to us by Puerto Ricans in the know who wouldn't miss an opportunity to move their feet to the beat:

• Candela, Rumba, Lazer T, and Coup De Ta — all located in Old San Juan.
• Club Luxor — in the Santurce district. Here Reggaeton is played on Friday and Saturday nights.

After eating our way through town, we recommend the following restaurants:

Chayote

Chayote is an upscale restaurant in the Miramar district featuring a contemporary basement dining room and an excellent creative Caribbean cuisine favored by a well-dressed clientele of San Juan urbanites and those visitors fortunate enough to have been tipped off to this gem by their concierges. Prices are moderate given the quality of the food, and the service is efficient yet pleasantly unobtrusive. Nothing disappoints on the deceptively straightforward menu — five seafood and five meat and poultry entrée selections are offered — and dishes such as Langoustines in Soy, Ginger and Lime Vinaigrette over Leek Puree and fresh Papaya or Ahi Yellowfin Tuna crusted with Sea Salt and Coriander, served with Carrot & Sesame Seed Purée, Ponzu Sauce, Wasabi and Nori Nest easily take island cooking to new heights. Desserts are scrumptious and the wine list is solid. Since the restaurant has a local following, the menu changes regularly and, given the opportunity, we certainly would have opted for a return visit.

Marmalade

Marmalade Restaurant and Wine Bar, located on Fortaleza Street in Old San Juan, is a moderately priced venue drawing a younger clientele with its take on contemporary California cuisine and its lounge-like, intimately lit interior. The Wine Bar offers an acceptable choice of champagnes and wines by the glass and by the bottle. A note on the menu informs diners that only naturally raised meats and hormone-free products are being used, and that the kitchen doesn't prepare Chilean sea bass, an endangered species. The à la carte menu offers a demi-pour wine pairing ($4.50 for white and $5.50 for red wines), but only with its appetizers, soups, salads and pasta dishes. A nine-course “Degustación” menu ($75.00) is available from Sunday through Wednesday, and it includes wine pairings with all courses except the dessert choice. The short list of entrées — four “Of the Sea” and four “Of the Land”, with one vegetarian option — includes salmon, tuna, swordfish and black cod, as well as pork loin, poussin chicken, rack of lamb and beef tenderloin. There are seven appetizers featuring such standards as tuna sashimi, smoked salmon sushi, raw oysters, seared scallops and fois gras terrine. Two soups, two salads, a risotto, a pasta, and one gnocchi dish round out the menu. After we sampled various courses, we concluded that the kitchen's execution doesn't quite live up to the flavor symphony promised by the items’ menu descriptions. One of the more unique appetizers, Paella Bytes a la Marmalade, seemed to be no more than small mounds of deep-fried chorizo sausage and rice, rather than the advertised “rolls of sushi-esque flavored spiced-chorizo rice scented with smoked chicken, peppers and a saffron-garlic emulsion”. Given the moderate prices and pleasant atmosphere, dinner was still an amiable experience.

Pikayo

Housed inside the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico in the Santurce district, Pikayo enjoys a reputation as San Juan's most innovative restaurant. Chef Wilo Benet, whose resume includes a tenure at New York City's Le Bernadin, offers fusion cuisine blending traditional “Puertorriqueno” basics with European classics in an upscale modern dining room. The clientele includes dressed-up locals and visitors alike, and the well-spaced booths and tables, fine art decorated walls, intimate lighting, and very professional service make for a classy dining experience. We found the enticing menu to be competently executed and enjoyed a fine meal here. Pikayo offers a “Mar” and a “Tierra” themed five-course tasting menu ($85 each), and Puerto Rican as well as custom tasting menus are available upon prior request. The à la carte menu features “Fritters & Hors d’oeuvres” and “Chilled & Marinated” sections next to appetizers, main courses and side dishes. Vegetarians may inquire about the chef's daily suggestions. A two-dollar per person bottled water service is available and the wine list includes interesting, fairly priced choices. “Fritters & Hors d'oeuvres” lists Tuna and Crab ”Pegaos”, Beef “Alcapurrias”, Truffle Cheese “Empanadillas”, and Salted Cod “Bunuelos” ($12.00 - $14.00). Spicy Tuna Tartar, Beef Carpaccio with Parmesan, Minced Hamachi with innovative “Wasabi Flying Fish Roe”, Black Truffle Smoked Salmon, and White Asparagus paired with Squid and Proscuitto make up the “Chilled & Marinated” selection ($16.00 – $18.00). Appetizers include Beet & Goat Cheese Salad, a Fennel, Arugula & Manchengo Cheese Salad, Spinach & Truffle Cheese Ravioli, Wild Mushroom Risotto, Escargot with Wild Mushrooms, Bacon Wrapped Grilled Scallop, and Crab Cake with Apple Ginger Remolade ($12.00 - $21.00). Main courses offer choices such as Veal Scallopini, Lamb Chops, Double-Cut Pork Chop, and Beef Tenderloin, or seafood dishes like Marinated Swordfish, Grilled Salmon, Rare Yellowfin Tuna, Oven-Roasted Halibut, and Grilled Shrimp with Chorizo ($28.00 - $54.00).

The Parrot Club

The Parrot Club is located in Old San Juan on Calle Fortaleza, a street home to numerous restaurants, bars, and shops. It is run by Roberto Trevino, the chef at the forefront of the “Nuevo-Latino” culinary trend who originally described his menu as “Euribian” — a mix of Latin and European cuisine prepared with local ingredients. The place has a casual bistro atmosphere and is a good choice for a lunch of blackened tuna or tamarind-glazed babyback ribs, and an evening cocktail at its long bar while strolling on Fortaleza Street.

Pamela’s Caribbean Cuisine

This restaurant is part of a small hotel situated right on the beach in the upscale residential district called Ocean Park. Diners can choose from indoor tables or those set up out on the sandy beach which makes for an intimate, romantic evening and great sunset viewing. Prizes are moderate given the quality of the items on the small but satisfying menu and wine list. Dishes prepared in the Nuevo-Latino style of Caribbean cooking include Romaine and Filet Mignon Teriyaki Rolls, Crab Cakes with Lemon-Lime Aioli, Grilled Prawns served with Coconut Curry Sauce, and Spicy Pork Loin with Pineapple Sweet & Sour Sauce. The creative and delectable desserts are not to be missed.

AguaViva

AguaViva is located across from The Parrot Club on Calle Fortaleza. The space is decorated in cool blue hues emphasizing its seafood menu, and the hip bistro-like atmosphere, as well as moderate prices, seems to attract young locals and tourists alike. Most dishes display an innovative touch and Latin influence. Appetizers include raw oysters and a variety of ceviches. For entrées we chose the Barbecued Jumbo Shrimp with Crab and Pancetta Confit over Basmati Rice, and Seared Jumbo Scallops with Paella and Chorizo. Cocktails are well mixed and the wine list is adequate. The seafood tasted fresh and one can have a satisfying, rather inexpensive meal here before moving on to some of the bars and clubs of Old San Juan.

Compostela

This restaurant was recommended to us by the concierge at the Ritz-Carlton who called it one of the finer dining establishments in San Juan. Compostela, tucked away in the Condado district, offers Spanish cuisine to an older clientele of well-to-do locals. The owners take pride in the restaurant's extensive wine list and its "Old World"-style cooking, but we found the wines a bit overpriced and the food lacking excitement and bolder flavors as it sticks to tried-and-true combinations, sauces and side dishes. The menu lists a wide range of appetizers, entrées, and desserts, as well as a made-to-order paella (two-person minimum), either with seafood ($54.00) or lobster ($70.00). Ossetra Caviar ($64.00) is offered as an appetizer and one can even opt for Maine Lobster ($41.00) from the seafood section. However, most of the temptations are found in the menu’s meat, game and fowl section. Here diners can choose between lamb (rack or medallions), veal (either loin, chop or shank), beef (filet mignon or sirloin), a pork filet, a venison filet, rabbit, duck, squab, and pheasant breast. Many of these entrées are prepared either in a red wine reduction, au jus with thyme, or with a green peppercorn sauce. A variety of sautéed mushrooms accompany the veal, the venison, as well as the squab and pheasant dishes. Desserts offer such classics as crème brulée, tres leches cake, coconut cake, warm chocolate cake, berry tart, and vanilla flan. Service is polished here, if at times matching the starched white tablecloths in stiffness.

Lemongrass

Next to the upscale Chayote, this more casual and moderately-priced restaurant in the Caribe Hilton Hotel, located in the Puerta de Tierra district of San Juan, was our favorite place for dinner. The pavilion-style dining room with indoor and outdoor seating is located in the property’s lush gardens, and soft lighting and background music create a soothing ambiance and romantic mood. The waitstaff here is fresh-faced and friendly, matching the younger clientele, which seems to include locals — we recognized our waitress at AguaViva amongst the diners. The cuisine could be best described as Pan-Asian Latino Fusion and the three-part menu offers something for every taste and appetite. It starts with a “Sharing Menu” — comprised of appetizer-sized plates such as Shrimp Spring Rolls, Tuna Tacos, Pork Dumplings, Spare Ribs, Bluefin Tuna Sashimi, and Lobster Ceviche. Another section — entitled “Rolls” — lists a creative assortment of rolled and nigiri-style sushi. Under “Mains” you’ll find seafood and meat dishes featuring scallops, Chilean sea bass, salmon, lamb chops, and duck breast. There’s a good wine list and a variety of tropical and standard cocktails to choose from. We grazed our way through the menu and couldn’t have had a more pleasant evening.

A weekend in Beverly Hills

Tina Meyer — Thu, 16 Nov 2006 23:45:00 -0500

Accommodations: The Peninsula Beverly Hills located at the corner of Wilshire and South Santa Monica Blvds. in easy walking distance to the famous boutiques of Rodeo Drive.

196 luxuriously appointed rooms include 36 suites and 16 “villas” set in the hotel’s lush tropical gardens. There’s a 60 foot rooftop pool surrounded by private cabanas, an adjacent terrace where California and Spa Cuisine is served in a casual el fresco environment, a modern fitness center, and the Peninsula Spa offering an extensive array of treatments.

All day light dining and afternoon tea is served in The Living Room and The Club Bar offers entertainment and cocktails and snacks at night.

The hotel’s main restaurant, The Belvedere, specializes in modern American cuisine served in an elegant dining room or a garden patio, weather permitting.

24 hour concierge and room services are available as well as a courtesy chauffeur service within Beverly Hills. Because of its size and its gardens, The Peninsula is a place of understated luxury that feels a bit more like a private estate than a metropolitan hotel.

Rates range from $425 (excl tax) for a superior room to $3,500 for the Peninsula Villa and the Peninsula Suite.

Besides browsing the high-end designer clothing and jewelry stores of Beverly Hills’ central shopping district and a salon appointment at Gavert Atelier on Brighton Way, we enjoyed a dress-up dinner at The Belvedere and a more casual evening with local friends at on of their favorite places, Joe’s Restaurant on Abbot Kinney Blvd. in Venice. (www.joesrestaurant.com)

The Belvedere

The menu is sectioned into “First Choices”, “Small Bites” and “Second Choices”, and a four-course seasonally themed “tasting” is offered al la carte or fixed price.

The wine list contains reasonably priced choices of domestic and imported labels, including half-bottles. With ten appetizer and twelve entree offerings, as well as the tasting menu and daily specials. (reduced portions of selected appetizers make up the “Small Bites” section), the menu reads like a promising culinary adventure. A set of amuse bouche preceded our first choices of a mixed green salad (not listed but prepared on our request), Nantucket Bay Scallops and a morel mushroom bisque from the tasting menu, accompanied by a half bottle of Sancerre. Our entree selection included roasted Peking duck and the fish special, seared Artic Char, along with a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Unfortunately, the tastes of the plates didn’t quite live up to their descriptions, i.e. there was little evidence of a “Black Arkansas Apple Emulsion” promised with the duck, and not much flavor to the “Roasted Pumpkin Brown Butter” served atop the scallops. Service is professional and unobtrusive, and the elegantly appointed room allows for a relaxing and intimate dinner. The check came to $280.00 inclusive of tax.

We did better pleasing our taste buds at Joe’s Restaurant, a lively place seemingly frequented by locals in the know. The menu, slightly in favor of fish lovers, features modern American cuisine prepared with a bounty of seasonal ingredients. We visited shortly before Thanksgiving and found the kitchen using a variety of squash, root vegetables, mushrooms and autumn fruits like pear, persimmon, quince and cranberries. Tasty starters included porcini mushroom ravioli in a wild mushroom, parsley and parmesan broth and a Maine lobster salad with fresh hearts of palm, fennel puree and celery hearts. Offered were also 2 salads, tuna Tatare and Day Boat scallops, as well as three appetizers featuring foie gras as a terrine with porcini “ice cream”, seared alongside grilled Big Eye Tuna, and a torchoy with brioche toast and quince jam. Entrée selections listed New Zealand red snapper, yellowtail and sturgeon, along with chicken, sirloin and Kurobuta pork for the carnivores. We were most intrigued by the two tasting menus offered, but had to pass since the chef requires the whole table to partake in these multi-course feasts. The so-called “Autumn Menu” paired a grilled escolar in coconut curry froth with one of tea smoked duck breast with tamarind puree. An adventurous sounding dessert promised the sweet and spicy tastes of yam and gorgonzola gratin with butter pecan ice cream and black pepper reduction.

The more extensive “Tasting Menu” opened with an appetizer of grilled Maine lobster followed by a fish course of line-caught Haddock with Kabocha squash gnocchi, and a dish of Venison with cauliflower mushrooms in apple-ginger froth and red wine reduction. A dessert amuse and a chocolate tea cake with all the trimmings closed out the meal. At $58.00 and $68.00 respectively, these menus would not only please any gourmet but also the cost-conscious diner. Appetizer prices range from $8.00 to $18.00. Those four entrées from $24.00 to $28.00. Service is attentive and friendly, and the noise level is below that hindering dinner conversation. There’s a small bar near the entrance and valet parking is available.

If you haven’t heard...... Or, in this case, haven’t smelled yet.

Tina Meyer — Sun, 22 Oct 2006 23:54:00 -0400

“The taste and the sense of smell form but one sense, of which the mouth is the laboratory and the nose the chimney.” This quote from Jean –Anthelme Brillat-Savarin considered the father of modern gastronomy, lays the foundation for Olfactory Cuisine. Meaning the addition of fragrances before and during your meal to enhance or titillate the eating experience. Rosemary twigs are burned to team it popular fragrance with meat, poultry or even shellfish dishes. For an autumn version, some restaurants place steaming bowls of oak leaves, pumpkin seeds, apples, cinnamon and hay on their tables. Olfactory Cuisine gives diners a “very visceral emotional experience” suggests Grant Achatz, chef at Alina in Chicago.